It seems like just yesterday that we stripped away the car cover, checked the air in the tires, disconnected the trickle charger and fired her up at the first sign of spring. Unfortunately, many parts of the country suffered through a cold, wet and snowy “spring” so their car season has been a short one. With beach weather wrapping up and “wrapping up” including long pants and real shoes, it’s time for us to offer you our J&L Oil Separator Co. Hibernation Guide for Your Ride.
If you live somewhere that you have the ability to drive your car year-around, you can use this handy list as a reminder that sometimes you have to give that baby some TLC.
Bath Time! Let’s face it, it’s more fun to drive it than wash it, but let’s use a warm-ish day to truly wash away the remnants of summer. Proper mitts, two buckets, high quality car wash detergent (not Dawn) and maybe a once over with a clay bar. No real need for a wax job at this point. Save that for a Cabin Fever Weekend in early February.
Fluids. All of em. Check them, top them or change them. We see a lot of engine bay pics with low brake, power steering or clutch fluid. Empty your J&L 3.0 Oil Separator. Now’s the time.
Tire inflation. Everyone has their own way to combat flat spotting during periods of extended stillness, but frankly, a +5psi fill and a monthly roll in and out will handle it. Yeah, we know, “jack stands”. You don’t really want to have your springs, shocks, struts at full extension for 3 months, now do you?
STOP! Seriously, this is a great time to head to a reputable shop and have them do a brake check. Pads are cheap and if you can drive and bed them in before you tuck your car in, so much the better for spring.
Interior. Lots to do here. A quality leather cleaner and balm is a great idea before cold, dry air takes its toll. Don’t spray some synthetic junk on it. Do your homework and take the time to clean the dirt, body oils and McDonald’s residue off before you treat it to some hide nourishment. Your leather will love you for it. For fabric seating, nothing will top steam and extraction but that also requires time and heat to fully dry it. There are some new “dry shampoo” entries to the market that actually do a pretty good job. But remember, read the instructions and yes, TEST an inconspicuous spot first!
You don’t generally need to shampoo the carpet but that will depend on a lot of things. So if it’s not grungy, give it a really good brushing and vacuum job.
Pro-tip: remove your mats and toss em in the trunk. Let the carpet fibers breathe and expand.
Glass….yeah, nobody likes to do windows, but do it anyway. As your vehicle sits for extended periods of time, the plastics in the dash and other areas will emit vapors that will coat your windows. You know the look; like driving on a foggy night. You use the wipers and realize you can write your name on the glass on the inside. Take the time to do it now and it’s one less thing you have to screw with in March (well, at least it will be less gunky).
Glovebox, console, etc. Really? A receipt from Memorial Day?
Lighting. Inside and out. Do a walk around and make sure all lights are in operating condition. If you live in an area where headlights develop an opaque coating, fix it before it becomes permanent. There are a number of DIY kits for this and we can tell you that unless you really like tedious detail work, there are people who do this for a living and normally guarantee their work. Give them 30 minutes and your lights are clear and bright. Or go DIY and spend hours if you really want quality garage time.
Electronics. Beyond the obvious lighting portion of your electrical system, we rarely find an old/older/old-ish car without something inoperable with the electrical system. From power ports to wiper motors to the CD that’s been stuck in the slot since 2000, there’s almost always something. Address it and you’ll feel better for it (we speak from experience). And here’s a not so obvious tip- Have you ever vacuumed your fuse/junction box? Pop the lid and use a detailing brush and vacuum. Fuses and relays age just like everything else.
Critters. They get cold, too. There’s really no barrier to entry when it comes to places for animals and bugs to relocate, but you can certainly be proactive when it comes to the major entry and exit points. You don’t want anything blocking your intake nor exhaust, so some light fabric or even a paper towel and rubber bands can seal off your intake and exhaust tips. DO check the engine bay with a flashlight monthly to see if anything is using your ride as a VRBO.
Fuel. There are as many “right ideas” on this matter as there are opinions on brands of oil. The basics are simple: Before hibernation, burn off old fuel, add the correct amount of a fuel stabilizer and fill the tank. Drive it 15 minutes to let it get through the system. Done. When it comes time to take that first blast down the highway on a warm winter day, just don’t. Fuel stabilizers tend to exacerbate knock. It’s certainly ok to drive it, but don’t beat on it until you’ve fully exhausted that tank and put a second one through it. And remember, in most of the country you’ll still be using “winter blend” fuel well into late April and yes, it’s more prone to detonation as well.
Oil Separators. We did mention them previously but we know that not everyone has one. Now is the time! Whether your engine is naturally aspirated, turbo or blower, every engine can benefit by keeping the recirculated gunk out of its intake tract. Click the here to learn more!
